Day 5 to 9 – Buenos Aires

26 to 30 March   Kms travelled – 0

Still zero kms travelled and, you guessed it, still no bike!  Each day brings different news about Idris´ journey, but not Idris itself.  I am trying to remain philosophical about the delays, it being all part of the journey, and it certainly has been a boon being able to spend some time on arrival in Buenos Aires to kick back and down shift after the mad dash to wind up work and get my stuff together for the trip.  But I´m ready to hit the road now – though I will refrain from doing so with my fist!  Yo no soy tonto!

As I write I am waiting for more news from James Cargo and Air Canada (who have been charged with the transport) as to Idris´ current location, and estimated arrival date.  If it arrives on or before Monday (today being Friday) we can clear it on Tuesday.  There are no Air Canada flights in on Tuesday, so if it arrives later we won´t be able to clear it at the airport until after the Easter celebrations here in Argentina – a further week and a half delay.  Sandra and Javier here at Dakar Motos have been great, but there is little they can do while the bike remains outside of Argentina.  

Patience is a virtue, but I think I have more of it than I have time available!  So, in the absence of anything road related, I thought I would update the blog with some information on life at the hostel.

The Dakar Motos Wall of Fame!

The garden at Dakar Motos

While being relatively basic in terms of amenities, Dakar Motos has an atmosphere that draws you in and makes you feel at home.  Well not quite at home, but you know what I mean.  The constant daily flow of bike riders and bikes provides us travellers with the opportunity to learn more about the different brands, different ways of travelling by bike, and the different routes taken to get here (or planned on departure).  Pulling out the maps and swopping information on places to stay, the condition of roads, and things to see and do has become a daily occurrence, and I´m grateful for the time of those passing through to share what they have learned in their travels.  Though I sense that, universally they are itching to speak about the sights and experiences of the road – the bubbling enthusiasm is palpable. 

Erik´s 13th birthday!

The fellow adventure bike riders (ABRs) with whom I am sharing the hostel are quickly becoming mates.  Shaheen from New Mexico, finishing his 14 month trek south (via Brazil) on a Buel;  Jay, Mercedes and son Erik (who celebrated his 13^th birthday here) on a 1 year tour from Canada on BMWs;  Andy and Ben from Australia just starting out on DR and KLR 650s (when they eventually arrive on the boat) are all adding to the friendly mix that is Dakar Motos – it sucks you in!

Sandra from Dakar Motos, Mike and I

There have been more people passing through, and I´m grateful to John from Alaska (and Max) for the offer of a place to stay when I eventually get up that way – and for his advice on riding the Ruta 40.  

Owain and Hannah from Australia spent a nice couple of hours chatting about their 2½ year epic around the southern continent; as did Woody (who also hails from that fair land) before heading north on his DR650.  Mike from Switzerland made a quick overnight stop here as he collected his GSA, before heading off on pretty much the same route as I have planned – but with less time.  A real mix of people and ideas as to what adventure bike riding is about, and I feel enriched from having met them all.  

Javier, Sandra and Mike

But it has been the locals – not least Sandra and Javier – who continue to impress with their patience (with my Castilian Spanish) and universal good humour.  Like meeting ABRs the world over, the laughs are plentiful – and long may that continue.

After a chilled week (aside from frustrations about the bike) and as I have the time, it will be back to the tourist trail again this weekend.  So more on that and what the city has to offer next time.

Thought for the day

This one is about friendship, and what binds often different people to each other.  Clearly a common perspective or interest is a driver in bringing people from diverse backgrounds together.  The motorcycle community, if I may call it that, is a case in point.  The interest in the machines themselves provides grounds for conversation, but I feel the similarities in our respective outlooks on life and how one should live are more critical points.  Bikes provide the opportunity to sample a sense of freedom, whether riding out for a few hours with mates, or taking a longer journey into the unknown – such as that I have ahead of me.  They also provide a means to engage with wider communities and learn from such experiences.  Idris is my ´tool´ to be applied in the process of learning through my travels – and wielding that tool I hope to develop my own sense of tolerance and understanding – in a growing community of friends that extends beyond any geo-political boundaries.  

J doing some much needed maintenance - it is a GS!

Day 3 and 4 – Buenos Aires

24 & 25 March   Kms travelled – 0

Saturday and now recovered from the flight over, with the sun shining and a new city beckons, so time to stretch those legs and follow the tourist trail.  The train from Dakar Motos into the city took around 20 minutes, and at a cost of A$1.80 return was pretty cheap too.  Arriving at BA´s main Retiro station, without the use of map or guide, I strode out in what seemed the direction of the centre determined to pick up what I could from my own observations and wandering – reading the travel guide would come later. 

In no time at all the streets started to sound with the beat of live music as I arrived in a (semi) pedestrian area, with a number of groups of young people on various street corners banging out mixes of reggae, salsa and, of course, tango.  Onwards into the heart of this rhythm and I had arrived at the Plaza de Mayo.  

Turning left I headed straight for the site of the first church in Buenos Aries, on which the Cathedral now stands.  Dating from 1753 it struggles a bit to impress from the outside, but what wonders await once you enter the threshold!  I had a curious moment while sitting and admiring the painting and adornment surrounding the walls, while lost in my own thoughts.  Outside in the square they were in the process of setting up for a live concert in memorial to those sadly lost, when the sound check kicked in.  

Given the perfect 22 degrees, the Cathedral’s main doors were all open, and the booming sounds of this impressive collection of musicians (I never did get the name) vibrated around the inside of this holy place.  How can I describe it?  The music was much like a hybrid of the Manic Street Preachers and Ultravox.  The resulting effect was not only powerful but haunting as I found my hairs bristle – and I couldn´t help thinking that sat inside the Cathedral would be the ideal place to take in the full show, but it was time to move on.

Outside in the square the Argentinean flag few high in the light breeze above the statue of General Belgrano.  While below veterans from the 1982 conflict and others, maintained their demonstrations against the injustices of the past.  

The imposing Casa de Gobierno (or pink palace) fills the one end of the square, and provides the seat of the country´s President.  Eva Peron once stood in those balconies, but I couldn´t shift the image of Madonna from the film Evita.  I am a victim of Holywood!

Up onto the Avenida 9 de Julio saw further demonstrations as the youth of the country voiced their disquiet, in what I saw to be very orderly and good humored march. 

Wandering around without a plan, I started to notice the people more.  I was greeted by a number with polite ´good mornings´ as I passed – which I must confess came as a bit of a shock at first.  Despite the obvious architectural similarities, there seemed to be much less of the impersonal heads down rush that most European capitals suffer.  Also, after spending so much time in Barcelona, I was also surprised to notice that no one was walking around with their daily ´barra´ of bread – something that you quickly become accustomed to seeing in Spain.

I´ve no idea how far I walked, but my legs were starting to complain, so time to head back.  On the train back to my nearby Florida station, I encountered a number of vendors of all sorts of products from hot dogs to DVDs, who flowed into my caboose one after the other with the timing of a military operation.  After about the fifth salesman I found myself trying to anticipate what would be the next sale I was offered – I lost – children’s coloring books never even entered my mind!

Sunday, chilling in the garden scribbling these few words, kicking back and chatting to my hostel amigos.  I´ll be back in the city to see more tomorrow, and get my act together in readiness for Idris´ arrival.  The tourism will be short lived as the motorbike travelling is soon to begin!  

Thought for the day  

A tricky one today, but in the interests of recording on these pages my thoughts, hopes and fears, I´ll press on.  I was most notably struck by the 1982 veterans demonstration in the city centre, and spent some time reading about how violent conflict impacted on this side of the Altantic.  If the music wasn´t so loud I would have engaged in conversation, but as neither side was able to converse effectively, I left it to a simple nod of recognition with those present.  A sobering moment.  Young people are so often called on to serve their country, and they do so with a reliance on those who should be older and wiser to guide them - indeed, direct them - placing their lives very much in their hands.  I am in two minds here.  Those who give their lives in the service of thier country should be respected, and that sacrifice honoured and remembered.  However, I was left with a feeling of sadness and futility about what took place 30 years ago - it didn´t feel just from either side.  Clearly in an imperfect world there are times when you have to make a stand and say enough, but that must always be the last resort.  There is more that binds us as a common people, than that which separates us.  More effort to build understanding and friendship reduces the fear of the unknown.  I am here to learn.  These are my thoughts.       

Day 1 and 2 – Barcelona to Rome to Buenos Aires

22 & 23 March  Kms travelled - 0

Not a particularly interesting day in terms of travel, but I have been pondering when I should officially start to record the journey, and have settled on the time I left our Barcelona home.  But I shall only record mileage relating to the time Idris and I spend on the road. 

I was seen off by some horrendous thunder and torrential rain which, while much needed following a particularly dry winter, only left me wondering whether this was some kind of omen.  I think not, but it did reflect my mood a little as I headed out the door.  A somewhat frightful taxi journey to the airport followed a sad and extended goodbye with Mrs Pat, as we both stocked up on 4 months’ worth of hugs and kisses.   

I´ve seen comments about the number of times that Charlie and Ewan noted how much they missed their wives and families before and during their Long Way Round and Long Way Down adventures.  I don´t recall ever being negative on that point, and I think you can only really understand such feelings when faced with the very real prospect of an extended time apart.  The lovely little note left by my wife tucked inside my passport was only discovered by the check-in clerk at Barcelona´s terminal 1.  It brought a little tear to my eye, and a compassionate smile from the efficient Alitalia lady.  Thanks lovie!

The short flight to Rome was uneventful as we landed with a clear sky and 23 degrees.  I decided to walk a few miles around the airport, while I counted down the 8 hours I had as a layover before boarding the overnight flight to Buenos Aires.

14 hours of plane travel left me a little frazzled, but the warm welcome at Dakar Motos (along with the perfect weather) has compensated greatly.  Sandra and Javier have been great, and I´ve arrived to the news that Idris will be hitting town on Wednesday.  A day later than planned, but time to tune in to the Argentinean accent, and chat to the like minded bike riders who drift in and out of this local moto-hub with the ease of long time friends.  There is also a stunning XT600 in the workshop, which Javier is thinking of charging entry to see given the amount of interest it is getting.  So plenty of time to chill, and to spend over an extended weekend to visit the key city attractions.

Thought for the day

Time at Rome airport to reflect on things ahead had me thinking about the often asked question of whether I was travelling alone.  Thus far I have been quick to answer yes on this point, but now I am not so sure.  Mrs Pat, although not physically with me, will clearly also be battling through every mile of the ride.  She will be with me in sprit and in my heart, but she will also be contributing to the journey as she manages life at home without the opportunity to spread the load.  I honour her for giving me this space to follow my dreams, and I honour her commitment to us as demonstrated through this sacrifice.  We have been together for 18 years, and have previously spent time apart due to work and family commitments, so we are both alive to how much work that can entail.  Even not having someone close to hand to talk through, or vent, on the day´s frustrations can mean an added load. 

Thank you my love, and I dedicate this first trip entry to you.

Countdown Blog 1

We're leaving together, but still it's farewell.  And maybe we'll come back to earth, who can tell.  I guess there is no one to blame, we're leaving ground (leaving ground).  Will things ever be the same again?  It's the final countdown... the final countdown, ooh oh ... (sorry I couldn´t resist – I am European after all!)

The final countdown indeed, only a matter of days now until I wave goodbye to loved ones.  These entries will then switch from preparation talk, and start to record the real day by day journey.  Last month I was getting concerned that I wasn´t feeling a buzz of excitement from it all, but a couple of weeks back I woke during the night in a sticky sweat with heart racing.  Being a very sound and regular sleeper I don´t usually recall dreams, but on this occasion I distinctly recall waking with the sensation that I wasn´t going to survive the trip!  Once I had recovered from the shock and my heart had returned to a normal pace, and I had a few moments to reflect, I turned over in bed with a smile and fell fast asleep once again.  The scale of the challenge for me had finally sunk in, I was getting pre-match nerves.  And, at last, I am officially excited!!

That essential element of the trip´s preparation aside, what else have I been doing?  Perhaps most importantly Idris has been deposited with those good people at James Cargo at Heathrow, to await its flight out to Buenos Aires.  Hopefully the bike will arrive on Monday 26^th a few days after my arrival at Dakar Motos.  In fact, here we both are at James Cargo saying a short farewell.

The remainder of my stuff has now been pooled into one of the spare rooms in our Barcelona flat, and the process of kit checking (and double checking) is now well progressed.  Worth doing, as it has already thrown up a few points.  For example, my cameras take different size SD cards, one of which I had no spares for, and I had doubled up on cables.  Plus I seem to have accumulated around three times the number of ´dry bags´ than I have things to put in them.  I think I might take a spare or two just in case, but I clearly don´t need to lug around a bag full of bags!  I´ll be taking the gear over with my flight, which allows two 32kgs bags to be checked in.  One of these will be my roll bag to be mounted across the back of the bike, the other will be a ´sacrificial´ bag, which will be left in Buenos Aires as soon as Idris´ panniers are filled.  Including the few bits and bobs that went over with the bike, I should be running with around 55kgs of luggage, camping gear, tools and spares.  

Work has been wound up and, where necessary, handed over to colleagues.  My thanks to everyone there for their help in getting business into good shape, and for all the kind words of support (and the bottle!).  Sad I know, but I´ll enjoy my travels more knowing that things are in safe hands.  My thanks also to those who have sent messages via Facebook, Twitter, e-mail and internet fora etc – including mates on ABR (see link on the right) who also helped me pick out some suitable reading matter for the trip.  Just a quick reminder that my Just Giving page is open and ready for direct donations to Unicef – see the link on the top right of this page.  It really is a boost to see that figure starting to tick over – so ´thanks mucho´ to everyone who has given so generously thus far.   

As I type this, I am sitting in the sun at the family home in Aragon.  The most wonderful Mrs Pat and I are spending a bit of quality time together before I head off in around 4 more days.  It is a joy to hear her laugh so much, and something that I will miss greatly I know.  I trust you´ll understand if, therefore, I cut these words short and bid you farewell... until my Day 1 blog from Buenos Aires!