29 June to 1 July Kms
travelled – 25,909
It was a real
struggle to drag myself away from that great hole in the ground that is the
Grand Canyon. But it was not long before
I realised that there were many more sights to see along the Colorado Plateau,
as Idris and I enjoyed the early morning emptiness and cooler
temperatures. Heading further east along
the 64 we were soon blessed with a view of the Little Colorado River Canyon and
a quick chat to local Navajos as they set up their craft stands in anticipation
of the day´s tourist trade.
As the 64 turned into
the 89 north, and a quick refuel, we were well and truly back in desert country,
and desert temperatures to boot! A
junction and a decision ahead, saw us turning north east along the 180 towards
Monument Valley. But it was still a way
off yet, with the road and countryside passing Tuba City and the Hopi Indian
Reservation not offering any particular inspiration to burst into song... or not even a quick hum of some long forgotten
cowboy ditty. But no matter, sometimes
on this trip you just need to do the miles...
so it was miles that we did, with another nice interlude chatting to
some local Navajos as we headed into their lands. Sometimes difficult to understand (perhaps
they thought the same about me) these fascinating people are quick to approach
and engage in conversation (and bum a smoke if you have any)! I was reliably advised that I was about to
head into some the prettiest country in the US... well they would say that wouldn´t they!
There is no doubting
that some desert landscape can hold a wondrous attraction and, indeed, be
breathtakingly beautiful in a way that contrasts completely with snow capped
mountains. And this was just some of
that type of desert. Those friendly
first nation chaps don´t lie. By the
time I had turned into the 163 at Kayenta my eyes had feasted on the sights,
and I rode with increasing anticipation of what was to come. In no time at all I was stopping and snapping
my camera at those distinctive sandstone formations so loved by the Hollywood
directors of yesteryear. But I had not
yet arrived at Monument Valley. The
sights improved as the colour of the sand darkened and the temperatures
increased. And then there it was!
Riding up the short
side road into the Monument Valley Park ($5 entry) visitor centre and
dismounting Idris I couldn’t help feeling a bit of a John Wayne swagger fall
into my step as I strode towards the purchase of some much needed cold
water. This feeling was only further
exaggerated when you saw the famous promo poster of John Ford´s blockbuster Stagecoach and looked behind it to see
those monuments to mother nature´s design in the flesh. If it wasn´t for the heat and the fact that
the desert breeze was flinging the finest sand I had encountered to date into
my face, I could have stood and gazed for hours. This was a similar moment to that I experienced at the
Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina, and one that convinced me that the 17 mile
sand and dirt road out into the park should be attempted. I was there after all...
But my enthusiasm and
lack of skill in riding soft sand (and some patches were really soft, like
talcum powder) caused me to wobble to a halt after only about 500 metres. I was riding a fully loaded bike in the heat
of the early afternoon with swirling winds pushing the fine grit into every uncovered
orifice. I was also losing fluids
rapidly (not only as I was figuratively peeing myself) and gasping for breath.
Riding soft sand is
hard work. Riding soft sand takes great
skill. And riding soft sand was clearly
beyond my capacity in handling this fantastic machine, as I had almost fallen
on at least 5 occasions and dug in twice on this short stretch alone. The Adventure Bike was clearly greater than
this Rider. I admitted defeat, took some shots, and wobbled my way back to the safety of the black-top visitors
car park, where I had to replace the fluids I had only recently taken on!
But was I
disappointed? Well, yes of course I
was. Just looking at that run out
amongst those red hills is enough to get any ABR salivating. But it did motivate me to take time out on my
return to develop my off road riding further...
perhaps in time for a run to Morocco?
On the positive side, I did ride in a desert, but not on a horse with no
name, but a bike called Idris!
Adopting a philosophical
mindset, and with a quick look at Idris´ lower half (which had now taken
on a good dusting of red red sand, making it look like all the metal bits had
suddenly turned to rust) we hit the road north.
Mexican Hat was the next town we rode through, and I couldn´t help
wondering how this remote town could have gained such a curious name when we turned
a bend to be met with a bizarre rock formation on the right, which looked just
like a Mexican wide brimmed Sombrero. That
would be it then!
Having sweated enough
for the day, we rolled into Bluff for an early stop and some much needed air
con and a shower. It was now 45 degrees
and with sand blowing everywhere my skin had taken on such a reddish tinge that
it would have been a great match for my hair, if the grey had not already
started to set in. I rested.
I think the next
morning I was struggling to understand exactly what the time was having crossed
a number of time zones. I said goodbye
to the land of the canyons and headed towards Moab. Each traveller is different, but for me these
excessive temperatures each day were not only sucking the fluids and energy
from me, but also my patience. I had had
enough of being hot and I wanted to see green again. I needed to make progress this day. I needed to get north. So the 191 beckoned, and Idris responded as
we ran through some wonderful rock formations, and an even deeper red in the
hills around Moab.
The 191 to Duchese
took us over a high mountain on the side of the Roan Plateau, which provided the
necessary altitude to offer a welcome respite from the searing heat of the day. And also provided some more interesting road
riding as Idris was allowed to clear the dust off the edges of its tyres. Around a bend, now taking it easy as I had
seen a sign about fire-fighters working in the area, and we were into a narrow
V-shaped valley, with the road running along about half way up on the one side,
and the other being a complete blanket of smoke and flame!
Flagging down one of
the nearby crews as soon as I could, I enquired whether it was indeed safe to
continue down the valley. I got a thumbs
up, with further some hand signals indicating that the wind was blowing the
flames away from my side of the road. I
also got a final shout before heading off that I shouldn´t hang around too
much... so I didn´t! Perhaps some intrepid photo journalist would
have taken the time to capture the sights of an up close raging wildfire, but I
must confess my only thoughts were echos of the fire fighter´s advice – and
that was to run away... and run away as quickly as I safely could.
Fortunately the run
down the valley into Duchese was a nice run, and I had soon left the flames
behind with the road putting a smile back on my face. I did spot a few oil pumping stations along
the base of the valley, which was a curious sight, and one that led me to think
they were the reason why there were so many brave folk on the mountain trying to
control events. But that soon passed as
we headed down back into the more sweaty lowlands. The town was a pretty small affair, but they
were also acting as the local base for the fire fighters drawn in to tackle the
mountain blaze, and they did have a friendly hotel for the night and a local
diner with a great fish and chips!
The cooler evening
was also a good time to get in some routine bike maintenance, which was also
the first time I noticed an unusual feel to the rear damping on the bike´s
suspension. I needed to keep an eye on
that I thought as I hit the hay for the night.
The morning´s early sunrise also brought to light the grey dusting of
wildfire ash that had settled over Idris overnight, which countered the still
red dust clinging to its underside. It
was probably time to start thinking about giving it a clean.
But that would
wait. We were on the road again, and
setting a good pace as I wanted to get into damper country. Before long we were climbing up through
valleys with improved greener vegetation.
Then we were in a forest with a full on mountain view, and I finally let
myself think we had escaped the freaky heat.
Nope! We were heading back down again, and the
degrees seemed to pile on as each metre of decent was clocked up. And then we were back into open flatlands
with a distinctly scrub desert type view.
Unlike some of the deep south of Argentina, however, this landscape was broken
up with the odd feature... a river, a
dam, the odd hills and twisty bits...
which was nice.
Then we were sent by
the road up the side of a high escarpment, where the road ran along the length of its edge for miles ahead.
The wind was being channelled along the valley below, and roared its way
up the side of the hill to hit the traffic atop side on. They had built miles of wooden wind-breaks which had some limiting effect, but I couldn´t help wondering why they built the road in
such a place in the first instance. The
problem I found with riding in high side winds is not so much the slower speeds
that such weather demands, but the energy you expend controlling the bike over
long periods.
So it was with aching
limbs and a sweaty brow that we rolled into Rock Springs to stop for the day, it was mid
afternoon. I did manage to have a little
look around this interesting town, which I couldn´t help calling Rock Ridge
(ref Blazing Saddles) which even came out a few times in my conversation with some
locals, sparking puzzled looks. I was
tired, OK! So after a wonderful steak (nope, not campfire beans!) I
went to bed early to the sight of one of the most spectacular wildfire boosted
sunsets I have ever seen.
Come on Pat, looking for the rest of the story, leaving late November with the missus for the same (ish) trip
ReplyDeleteDid you go to the office in BA for insurance or is Javier an agent? and where did you get insurance for mexico, the US and canada?
Many thanks for the message. You are in for a real treat on this trip, and the fact that you are sharing it with your better half can only be a bonus. Don´t worry lots more to come on the blog, and you´ll get to see it all in plenty of time for your departure.
ReplyDeleteAs for insurance, try: http://www.motorcycleexpress.com/ for the north america bits.
Javier and Sandra will sort you out insurance online for the first month, you´ll then have to pop into the city centre to the office to get it extended for how many months you want it for and to get it covered for all the Mercasur countries. Pretty easy and cheap and folks have done that without much (if any) Spanish.
Have fun... hard not to really!
Thanks Pat, big help, much appreciated, learning Spanish just now but suspect it'll be a grasp of basic words rather than conversation by the time we arrive
ReplyDelete