7 to 8 July Kms
travelled – 27,349
It was good to get
back on the road following the enforced stop-over in Bozeman, even though I was
now carrying a weariness with me regarding the time spent travelling. 108 days away from home, closing on 4 months,
I realised was pretty much my limit in terms of time away from the most
excellent Mrs Pat. My time was running
out, as were my finances, so the decision was made to skip Calgary and its world
famous stampede, but to ride a more direct heading towards Alaska. Rodeo and the stampede had been one of my
´would really like to dos´ for this trip – but they were competing against my
last remaining ´must do´ - and that was get to Alaska! So the game was on, sights were set firmly
north, and we rolled out of Bozeman early on a clear and fresh Saturday
morning.
The freshness
remained with us for a while, but the clear skies seemed to disappear almost as
soon as we left the town limits! Taking
my usual option of avoiding the interstate, we rode alongside the 90 through
some small villages as the weather darkened and rain set in. Turning north on the 287 the road was in a
pretty bad state. They called it ´chip
sealed´ which I took to mean a scattering of loose chippings were bedded into
the road surface by some sort of tar-based sealant. However it looked just like loose stones on
the road, and often it was just that. Progress was slow, and I was getting
increasingly unhappy about Idris´ handling... again! I first put it down to the new rear tyre
being scrubbed in on a wet day... then I
thought it might be that coupled with the patches of loose stones on the road
(they were very hard to spot in advance, but easy to feel once on top of them
as the bike squirmed under load).
But as I pulled away
from a traffic light near Helena and slipped three teeth on the rear sprocket I
realised there was something more fundamental adrift. Rolling to the side of the road evidenced an
extremely loose chain. Ah, thought I,
poor chain adjustment when refitting the wheel after the rear tyre change. 200 meters easy riding and I was into the
small car park of a convenience store, you know... the type that sells fresh
coffee all day long. So a quick chat to
the attendant and I was furnished with my breakfast (hot coffee and cereal bar)
and readily given permission to turn his car park into a makeshift
workshop. Even at moments like this, I
still had the feeling of the good luck on my side... the rain had stopped and the sun was now
shining. Convenient that!
Straight to it, and
on getting out my tools I quickly realised that something was amiss with the
rear spindle nut – it was not showing any thread, but sitting right at the end
of the bar getting ready to fall off with a few more turns! Pulling Idris up onto its centre stand
confirmed the fact that the rear wheel was well and truly loose, as it wobbled on
the less than finger tight spindle. It
had also vibrated against the chain tensioners and caused them to slacken off,
hence the slipping chain and sprocket.
An easy fix... and thankfully I had not lost the nut on the road
somewhere – as I was not carrying anything near that size in spares (for me or the bike!). Failing to properly tighten the rear spindle
nut on replacing the rear wheel was a basic workshop error which could have
gone badly wrong. But in my heart I
couldn´t feel any anger at the guys in Bozeman who bust a gut during a holiday
week to get me rolling again. I checked
off the other nuts and bolts that might have been looked at during the service,
and all were fine, and the adjustment of the rear wheel was also completed in
time to sip from my still hot cup of coffee.
And then some locals rolled up for supplies, so the opportunity to chat
to some real characters was not to be missed.
I had a lovely sincere blessing to see me on my way from a rare old chap
after an interesting conversation about Celtic music. I´m not sure I even got his name, but he
sported a most impressive beard and added something to the morning´s
events... and consequently added to the
whole experience of this fab land.
And then Idris was
back!! Well, perhaps not at 100% of its
previous handling, but more than enough to return some much needed
confidence in its abilities to see me through to the finish line. It is a curious way of looking at this part
of the journey, when I start to talk about the finish line, but it is those
exact words that I noted in my day book that day. I was counting down the days, and on a race
to the finish.
The race did,
however, take us through some pretty rolling plains with grass and cereal crops
abound. This coupled with the very low
levels of traffic was sufficient to take my mind away from the worries of the
last few days, and to enjoy the ride as miles were racked up.
Rolling into the
pretty town of Augusta the warmth of the day was now demanding a stop to take
on fluids, and I pulled up outside a pretty wooden shop front (which was
not tricky as a lot of the shops were of an oldy-worldy nature here). And it was not long before I was invited to
sit on the rocking chairs set on the front porch and shoot the breeze
with its owner. We didn´t literally
shoot any breeze in Augusta, the wind of late not having given me cause to be aggravated,
but if we wanted to this was the right place to be... I had pitched up at the town´s gun shop. A very memorable chat ensued and the time just
flew by. Nice people in Montana. I was left with the growing conclusion that
if I was ever faced with the situation that I might have to live in the US, I
think Montana would be towards the top of the list (accepting that I had not
seen the place mid-winter!).
Back on the road, and
the day´s events had conspired to take the wind out of my sails. It was only mid afternoon, and I had not
covered my planned distance (but nothing new there!). I was thinking about calling it a day and as
I rolled through another small town and spied a campsite sign, I thought it a
good moment to try and save a bit of cash and sleep under canvass before
hitting bear country. The Choteau campsite
looked good, so was the price, and the long roll of thunder that sounded my
arrival was all that was needed to convince me to call it a day.
I should be honest and
complete though, there were a couple of other things that occurred that day
before my head it the pillow. With the
storm still being a way off I headed into town and bagged myself one of the
best steaks to date... followed by a damn fine black and blue pie (blackberry
and blueberry). If you are in Choteau in
northern Montana check out their local grill restaurant! Also if you are in Choteau don’t park your
bike on the right side of the road on chippings with the camber running away
from you... and then try and get off the
bike the wrong side because a truck was coming down the road. You´ll probably, like me, clip the tank with
your left boot and pull the bike over on top of you as you fall over. Much to the amusement of Mr T Driver who,
to his credit, did have the decency to check that I was OK before he burst out
laughing. This was the forth time Idris
had been dropped on this trip, and to do so from such a basic rider error
brought home to me that I was indeed in need of a well earned rest! So I went to sleep with a smile and to the sound of rain
drops, which was nice.
Even nicer was the
clear deep blue sky that greeted us in the morning. A quick pack and the road saw us again gliding
swiftly through pretty rolling plains and the Blackfeet Indian reservation as
we headed towards Glacier National Park, and the sight of snow for the first
time in many many days. The ride up
through the park and the ´To the Sun Highway´ was well worth the slight detour
west, and I would recommend its majestic peaks and stunning tree lined valleys to
any biker. I didn´t see any bears
though, which I took as a mixed blessing.
Columbia Falls came
and went in a bit of a tourist haze, but it seemed pretty enough, and I was
then shooting up the 93 for the border. Canada was calling, and I was about to
answer. And what an easy conversation it
was at the small crossing at Roosville, a 20 minute wait in the short
line of traffic, a quick passport show to the nice lady in the booth
(whom I had to ask to stamp the thing) and there I was
riding Idris into my last country on the list.
The scenery around
Glacier National Park was wonderful and it only got better as I got a secure wheel-hold
on Canadian soil. The 93 quickly
switched into the 3 and then back into the 93 as we rolled through tree lined
mountainous valleys with the roads taking us on rollercoaster style dips and
turns. You could do this run really
quickly, and we weren´t hanging around, but why would you not want to see all
that you could see when the place offered so much. Mountains, snow, forest, rivers and
lakes. Almost every turn of the head was
an excuse to stop and fire the camera yet again.
One of the many photo
stops that afternoon saw me having a great chat with a few Harley bikers from
Calgary, a 60 year old chap (who could have passed for 45!) and a couple of ladies,
who were very generous with their time and advice about places to see and where
to stop. Seems I´m finding that there are
nice people not only in Montana, but throughout the whole of the Americas.
I moved on, and settled on a quiet motel on the side of lake Windermere in
the small town of the same name. A
pretty spot and one which I welcomed for the night. I was chasing Alaska, but now determined to absorb
as much of Canada as I could along the way.
Thought for the day
My thoughts these
days saw me running from concern over the bike through to wonder (again) at the
people and places that I encounter in this journey. I meet many people as I travel through and
our lives touch, and I´ve been thinking on how deeply such encounters affect
us.
I know that the memory of moments meeting
people outside a gun shop, or in a shop car park, will remain with me for a
long time. But will I be changed by such
encounters? I do feel changed by some of
the scenes I have seen regarding children in poverty, and I know that my
actions will be different as my life progresses as a result of those. The impact of that is more immediate and more
noticeably felt. But what about encounters
we have as adults with people from different background, different belief
systems, different viewpoints and different conclusions to the same issues... do we simply take those experiences and park
them in our memories like holiday snapshots, to be pulled out from time to time
as mementos of a wonderful time in days past.
Or do they seep into our consciousness and help mould us in new ways,
perhaps into someone more tolerant and wise?
These were my
thoughts as I tucked into a most excellent oriental dinner in the quiet town of
Windermere... a town comprised of different backgrounds and cultures... yet
appears to succeed in harmonious beauty.
Pat - enjoying your ride report greatly. Can I ask, are you still using the Samsung PL211 compact camera for you snaps? The photos seem exceptionally good for what is a modestly priced compact camera.
ReplyDeleteCheers LMG - till more to come. Yep I am still using the same camera. I just leave it in auto mode, point and shoot (which is just about all I can manage anyway). Very pleased with the results - which just give a glimpse of what you see with the naked eye.
ReplyDeletePat
Cheers. I have done the US trip several times (from my 2nd home in Phoenix up to Glacier NP) - some of my fondest memories are those in the Colorado Rockies (Pikes Peak, Mt Evans, etc) and Neptune Valley in South Dakota. the blog entries have stopped circa July. Have you paused your trip?
ReplyDeleteLMG - looks like you will have recognised a lot of the sights I saw running through the lower 48!
ReplyDeleteBlog hasn't stopped, I'm still posting every few days. I just ended up getting a bit behind the actual trip. Its hard work trying to write while on the road!
If you Follow by registering your email on the right hand side, you'll get a little nudge every time I post a new episode - or you can register as a Member. Not sure what the difference is.
Cheers
Pat